First off if you wish to see a few photos go to the “Category” area just under Sections (click) “sport court project” and you will see more…
The first task was to locate a suitable area. Grade ultimately dictated the location, as less site prep was required.
Once the site was selected survey flags went down so that the roughed out court could be eye balled. The next day the bobcat showed up and a six-inch excavation appeared before anyone really knew what was going on! Once I set my mind to it watch out.
Your bobcat guy can make life a lot easier for you by:
1) Taking the excavation down to clay. Saying six inches may not be a realistic expectation! Depends on how much top soil you have. Let’s face facts the newer subdivisions you are lucky to have four inches! The older homes may have as much as 8″.
2) Once they find clay leveling the hole will help out immensely. Don’t expect a bobcat operator to take his bobcat off the trailer for less than $250
3) If you can find a location on sight use for your “clean” fill, costs can be reduced… trucking away 16 yards of soil tends to be costly… One strategy that may help reduce costs is to look at a “drop bin” for carting away soil. Be thankful you don’t live in Calgary where disposal charges are huge IF you can find a place to take it! Perhaps you will look into the concept of a BERM!
Just wait until you start paying to have other product Trucked in! Road Crush and Cement all rely on energy for production and you pay; believe me you pay. Heck the Cement producing firms have fuel surcharges for delivery!
Anyway after excavation is complete you need to form the pad.
1) I used 2 x 6 pressure treated lumber with the idea to reuse the lumber for fencing afterwards.
2) “Batter boards”; square and level are all items to become familiar with. Darn if I only knew math skills would come in handy! The bottom line here is you want your pad level and square. Measure out 3 feet down one side and 4 feet down the opposite the distance between the two marks should be 5 feet and thus the corner is a right angle! Do this for all four corners!!
You should also check the distance between corners diagonally, bisecting the center (which you should have located when checking for level with your transit) regardless the two diagonals should be the same.
For water to run off look at 1/2 inch ever six feet? Or one inch every 10 feet, it depends on who you talk to. Remember you need to have water run away from your house foundation!
3) In order to make life easier you may want to over excavate by a foot in each direction it will allow for an easier time forming.
4) Figure out which corner should be the highest and start there with the grade decreasing in each direction.
5) Using your math skills above and the transit “pin” your forms to stakes. Make sure stakes are pounded into the ground as far as possible. Once the forms are pinned and everything is correct, go around and screw them securely to the stakes. Hitting the form with the packer or a load of road crush should NOT move them.